Each month we introduce you to someone who has made the dream of picking up and moving to the Bel Paese a reality. In their own words they share the good parts, the bad parts and the just plain absurd moments of day-to-day life in Italy.
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Mary Jane Cryan, 50+, a tri-national,having been born in the US of Irish parents and gained Italian citizenship through marriage. An author and contributing writer for many well-known guidebooks. International education and tourism consultant, see her website , www.elegantetruria.com/book/book.htm. You can email her at: macryan@libero.it
Currently living in: Currently living in Vetralla, an ancient town near Viterbo, 68 kms north of Rome. (For more info:www.comune.vetralla.vt.it )
By way of: a native of Massachusetts, studied in Buffalo, NY then in Dublin, Ireland. Since 1965 in Italy, mostly in Rome, a year in Genoa, 3 years in Moscow.
How (or why) did you get here from there?
I was offered a position as a teacher in one of Rome?s international schools fresh out of college. I had met my future husband while studying in Dublin during junior year.
What role did language skills play in your experience?
Knowing I wanted to go to Rome , I took Italian classes during my last year of college and continued studying the language while teaching and eventually got my Laurea degree from an Italian university. Even after all these years I still speak with an accent . At home we often speak a mixed language-Itanglish-starting the sentence in one language and switching to the other half way through. In Moscow it was worse: ?Mamma, posso avere a glass of malako? is a a typical phrase-using the three languages we spoke Italian, English and Russian for the names of local things like milk, ice cream, etc.
Your biggest challenge: Restoring this old palazzo (there , I?m doing it again) and coping with the Italian and local bureaucracy : When my husband died suddenly I had to figure out all the intricate details by myself. It was a nightmare.
What did you do to feel at home or adapt here?
Living abroad and in international environments from a young age one learns how to make friends and adapt quickly to new places. Since I write guidebooks and ?how to? books about Italy I?ve had a double reason for learning about all phases of Italian life. For newcomers , remember its up to you to make the first move, invite people , introduce yourself, make yourself known in your new town.
What do you still have to get used to/learn?
I must still get used to Italian politics and calcio which I find completely incomprehensible. The way the school system is run is also a mystery?as soon as I think I?ve figured it out, they change the rules.
Compare an aspect of your home town (or other place you’ve lived) to current town.
Living in a small town like Vetralla is so much easier than life in Rome and other metropolitan centers . Its perfect for someone my age and with my profession. I am in touch with the entire world and am able to write, publish , keep contacts with the entire world thanks to Internet. The lifestyle is more relaxed and its also much cheaper to live here.
Latest pursuits:
In Rome I was just one of many English-language writers, teachers. Here I am unique and have found my niche promoting the area known as Etruria through my books, website and travel consultancy.
A preconceived notion about Italians/Italy that is or is not true:
I believe that city-dwelling Italians, as I was for about 30 years, work harder and usually have a very stressful day due to traffic and crowded living conditions. The people here, only forty minutes north of Rome , have a more relaxed attitude towards life, as if they are living in a time warp, like Italy was 50 years ago. The family, local traditions and festivities are more important and people have more time to enjoy themselves.
Your response to the following question: “I really want to live here, but I don’t speak Italian or have a job. What do you think?”
My answer, Come for 2 weeks or 2 months each year and enjoy the good life. If you are set on coming to live here, buy a house here, etc. read as many books possible before making the decision.
Recently an Englishman who speaks very little Italian and is struggling with a house restoration project in my area said, ?If I had only found your book last May-how many headaches I would have saved myself!? Talk to many people before making decisions, everyone has had different experiences. And above all, learn the language .
How would you sum up your Italian experience in a word (and why)?
I wouldn?t trade my 30+ years here with anyone else?s life.
Italy’s best kept secret (music, culture, food, way to get round things)
The small towns in the Viterbese-Etruria area are still to be discovered by Romans and foreigners. They offer genuine Italian lifestyle, the province?s lowest real estate prices and are connected by train to Rome.