The centuries-old rite is a holdover from when all Italians feared serpents — in current times they’re more likely to have one around the house.
Some 60,000 Italians keep snakes as pets, according to think-tank Eurispes, and the first “reptile beauty contest” was the highlight of a three-day fair held recently in Rome.
In Cocullo (Abruzzo), however, the behavior of the snakes (none are poisonous) placed on the statue of the saint during the midday procession on the first Thursday in May is read as a sign of things to come. If the snakes wind around St. Domenico’s head, the coming harvest will be a good one, if they head towards the arms and leave the head free local prophecies of gloom and doom abound. The procession dates back to pre-Roman times when the goddess Angizia was said to protect local farmers from snake bites.
Though somewhat overshadowed by the reptile aspect, dental protection is also part of celebrations. A bell is rung — the string must be pulled by teeth for good tooth health — and the faithful line up to kiss the holy molar. St. Domenico, who previously kept away fevers and storms, became the patron of teeth and snake bites in the 16th century. Legend has it the saint transformed poisonous snakes into fragrant bread — so women follow the procession with circles of bread shaped like snakes biting their own tails.
Celebrating Italy — Food & Traditions
Recipes and folklore from the Bel Paese