Three months after the May 2001 funeral ceremony for Florentine steak, the prized cut of beef has been restored to local restaurants. Butchers have gone round the year-long ban– by cutting around the vertebra where danger of mad cow contamination is more likely. The steaks found in the San Lorenzo market, according to Massimo Manetti head of the butcher’s association, are all either boneless or certified under 12 months old. The new agricultural minister, Giovanni Alemanno, has taken up the crusade and vows to have the ban lifted by the EU in September.
Related resources:
Two addresses for the fearless–
Buca Lapi (Florence) Via del Trebbio, 1/R Tel.055 213768
Da Padellina (Strada in Chianti) C.so di Popolo 54, Tel. 055 858388
Brunch Italian Style: the Addresses
The recent media-go-round was kicked off by newspaper La Repubblica: a seemingly innocent evergreen about Italy’s brunch trend (which dates about five years back) was picked up and unduly magnified, perhaps due to poor translation, by foreign press.
Italians and expats alike do enjoy Sunday brunch–a relatively inexpensive way to see friends and chat over the papers. It hardly signals the demise of the traditional family luncheon as intimated–it’s more a way to beat the Sunday blues for young professionals who’ve moved far from home.
A few caveats: this is strictly a social thing, a way to hang out (stare insieme) rather than eat a fab meal.
Best way to avoid mediocre food and sketchy service: reserve ahead and go early.
A brunch outing ranges from around $10-15 USD…And don’t be alarmed if instant coffee is presented in several varieties as if it were a luxury–instant coffee makers have been one of the biggest sponsors of the trend–check out this site of a noted brand for brunch locales throughout Italy. www.brunch.it
We thought we’d add to the bru ha ha with highly-rated staff picks:
Milan:
Le Biciclette – v. Torti (Navigli area) tel. 02.58104325
Gran Burrone- v.P. Paoli (Navigli) tel.02.58100216 part-owner Jovanotti, very cool vibe
Rome: Bibli – Via dei Fienaroli 23 (Trastevere) tel. 06.5884097 bookstore and cultural association.
Florence:
Rose’s via del Parione 26r tel. 055.287090 Saturdays only.
Hemingway p.za Piattellina 9r (Oltrarno area) tel. 055. 284781
Turin:
Lutèce p.za Carlo Emanuele II 21 tel. 011.88.76.44 68 Super chic
Wine online: Bank on it
Only in Italy could a bank sell wine: Banca CR Asti is the latest to launch a portal to capitalizing on goods of the grape. The web site –called “catanabuta” or “grab a bottle” in Piedmontese dialect–hooks up producers, buyers and customers. Bank management decided to branch out to offer more services to its clients, many of them involved with wine-making in the region.
www.catanabuta.com
Etna Ice Cream: A Volcanic treat
The hottest new flavor in Italian ice cream takes its name from the Etna volcano. Vanilla and cherry ice cream laced with anise liqueur, perched on a base of sponge cake. The final touch: black powdered sugar, for that realistic ash-effect.
In an attempt to drum up business since rolling lava scared off tourists, caf? owner Francesco Urz? of Catania started giving away the “Etna Earth” flavor to regular customers. He told zoomata only about 10% of them refused–convinced it would bring bad luck. Etna, which got busy again the last half of July 2001, is Europe’s highest active volcano.
Parmigiano by Another Name
Nomenclature matters: enough to take it up with the European court of justice in Luxembourg. Italian parmigiano cheese makers won the battle against industrially-produced imitators trying to cash in on the cheese’s clout by using the name “parmesan.” Considered a benchmark case in countries with numerous local specialties to defend, the decision, however only limits damage from cut-rate Italian versions. The words “parmesan” and “Made in Italy” cannot appear on products from Italy which do not meet the centuries-old production process. Companies who produce copy-cat products outside Italy can still use the name.Why the semantic fuss? The parmigiano business lobby is a strong one–profits from the cheese make it second only to Italy’s fashion industry. For the five provinces which produce the “official” parmigiano–Reggio, Modena, Bologna, Mantua Parma–the name is everything.
http://www.parmigiano-reggiano.it
Test your knowledge of parmigiano (from what cows are fed to aging process) with the Parma consortium guide. In English/Italian.
Pastasciutta to Go
A source, naturally deep throat, confirms our hunch about a new kind of Italian fast food — one colossal of the local market is clamoring to get things going in Europe…
Pasta giant Barilla plans to open the first in a series of quickie restaurants before year’s end..starting with Greece.
Related resources: Long considered the poor cousin of the calzone, the panzerotto is poised to take on the international market thanks to one family-run operation. The crescent-shaped pocket filled with meat, cheese or vegetables fried and served hot is the specialty of the Luini family, which has fed three generations of Milanese in the shadow of the Duomo. The success of a London branch, where the panzerotti are going at the rate of 1,000 a day, has spurned them to try the Japanese market. Related resources: “The states? Great, but I couldn’t get a decent cup of coffee.” It’s the high-tech version of what grandma always said–this new site about food therapy (called “psicocucina”) proves that comestibles can cure what ails you.Low self esteem? The Greek pepper salad is a perfect remedy-it’s an impressive dish sure to win the applause of dinner guests..Insomnia? Try the blackened onions in Oriental aroma–the smell is “hypnotic” and the cook is likely to nod off during the 8 hours cooking time. The most unusual? 2 million Italians participating in August “sagre” Summer in Italy means “sagre” or fairs in celebration of local specialties. Most center around produce: the Eggplant Fair (Corigliano – Aug. 14) or the Blueberry & Raspberry Fair (Trasaghis – Udine- month of Aug.)
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Here Comes the Panzerotto
Have a look at the official site (in English & Italian) www.luini.it
For recipes (Italian only) look up “panzerotto” here: www.cooker.net Ooh! The first portable espresso maker
No more whining: now a real espresso can be had most anywhere. Bialetti has invented an electric version of a two-cup moka, perfect for the picky coffee enthusiast. Just plug in (converts to 110 or 220 volts), wait 3 or 4 minutes and “Elettrika” does the rest.
Only for real enthusiasts (who, except for the espresso-fanatic, would lug coffee, sugar and cups around?) but at least the option is there. The Elettrika will set you back Lit. 43.200 (around $22 USD). http://hishop.bialetti.it/it/shop/prodotto.asp?codiceArticolo=0000208 Food Therapy: Curing the Heart at the Table
A recipe for cuckolds: spaghetti with clams. The reasoning–if the “patient” has “corna” or horns, the only way get rid of them is to eat some and clams are easier to digest than snails.
www.psicocucina.com/Italy by Numbers: Summer Food Festivals
43% take place in southern Italy
18% take place in central Italy
29% dedicated to seasonal produce
Though festivals centering around fish or cheese are half as common as those dedicated to meat, the mad-cow scare will probably influence crowds.
Time-honored traditions involving meat (like the donkey stew fair in Calliano (AT) – August 25) probably won’t boast a huge turnout.
Better to stick with pasta, like the Pappardelle Fair in Montespertoli (Florence Aug. 24 – Sept. 3)