Chinese New Year, Italian Style

by Nicole Martinelli
Chinese New Year in Italy is a celebration unto itself.
For starters, parades never take place on New Years or even on the same date in different cities. The year of the dog was celebrated in Rome February 4th and in Milan the next day.

Milanese celebrations always have a special Italian touch. Last year, the New Year was feted closer to Carnival with a hybrid mix of dancing lions and kids in Harry Potter get-ups.

This year, Italians joined in with a brass band. Not just any brass band, but fanfare of the bersaglieri. Founded in the Piedmont region in 1836, this infantry corps is best known for wearing spectacular hats with a spray of grouse feathers. Continue reading

Giving non-Italian citizens the vote

I finally got an ‘admit one’ ticket to the circus of Italian politics. Well, sort of.
I voted. In a way.
Milan is holding primary elections for center-left mayoral candidates and immigrants can join the fun, too.

No matter that those same non-Italian citizens cannot actually vote in the national May elections.
The scattered left parties, up against Berlusconi’s record-holding government, have brought a new concept to the Italian political system: primary elections.
Since they need numbers, immigrants resident here for at least three years can participate in these primaries.
The reasoning? Immigrants will vote for left, because the left will promote fair immigration laws. Ignoring, of course, that the cornerstone of those laws, the Turco-Napolitano, is a quite conservative product of the left.
Voting is a major part of life in any country, but in Italy there were so many things to vote for — what with the government falling every three weeks and referendums all the time — that it became a constant cultural activity.
As an extracomunitaria, as non-EU citizens are called, I never got to join the fun.
I would follow, puppy-like, Italian friends into grade schools and wait outside classrooms while they cast about for a new leader or expressed an opinion on hunting. But I was still an outsider.
Now it was my turn.
I wait behind two elderly, fur-coated signore outside a white plastic tent put up for the occasion in the square.
My neighborhood borders Chinatown, but I am the first non-Italian to vote here. The first two volunteers are at a loss and I am shown to Paolo, a jaunty middle-aged man in a flat cap and puffer jacket. He checks my ID card, looks at a photocopy of my stay permit and stands over another volunteer to make sure my voter form is filled out properly.
They take my name, place of birth (inevitably pronounced San-Fran-Chees-ko) and tell me I must also fork over a donation, of at least a euro, for the privilege. Sure, I say, swiping a few Pocket Coffees from a tray of chocolates offered to voters for the trouble.
I take my bright orange ballot over to a little desk that, in a vague nod to privacy, has two little 8 x 10 pieces of cardboard around it.
There are four candidates:
Bruno Ferrante, former head of the police department who bills himself as a “servant of the Italian state.”
Milly Moratti, current city councilor, who would run against the only other female candidate, her conservative sister-in-law and former education minister Letizia Moratti.
Dario Fo, Nobel prize winner for literature, who at 80 would perhaps be the oldest mayor in Italy.
Davide Corritore, a congenial-looking 47-year old with background in finance background for the Union party.
On my way out, I ask Paolo when he thinks immigrants will be able to vote for real. “Chissà?” Who knows, he says, shrugging in typical Italian fashion.
Perhaps turning out for the old college try is what political participation is really about in Italy.

3G Hell, Italian Style

MILAN, ITALY — When I moved to Florence in the early 1990s, I thought my student get-up of Doc Martens and overgrown sweaters cut just the right dash between ingenue and intellectual. But when Gino the cappuccino slinger in the ground floor of my 16th-century apartment building offered to drum up change from the regulars for a decent jacket, I knew I had to up the ante.

A decade on, I thought I was doing pretty well, as a Milanese signorina with Hermes scarf and Gucci bag. Cue Italian Premier Silvio Berlusconi pimping hair transplants and face-lifts as the necessary accessories for any political hopeful and, God forbid, the advent of the video phone.

Italy, second only to Hong Kong for percentage of mobile-phone users, is now also a leader in 3G users. Though most experts brush away this kind of clunky technology, I fear the bell for high-living, under-waxed singles has already tolled.

An English friend convinced me to go 3G. Rates were low and the phone was thrown in free for journalists. For a few blissful weeks, my video-phoning was limited to beaming footage of Rufus, my very telegenic bearded collie.

Then Luca, a co-worker, video-phoned from the beach in Sardinia. Tan, with a tummy enviably toned in little rolls, he wanted to gloat over my city-induced pallor. His wife, Maddalena, who had given birth to their son just a month before, desperately tried to conceal the ravages of her C-section slump as he swung around for a panoramic shot. The video call ended abruptly with a phrase I would hear a lot: “Any chance you’ll flash me?” Oh, gee, the connection broke.

The revolution will be televised and, yes, that means there is no such thing as in-between waxings (as my roommate Sara found out when her lover wouldn’t take video “no” for an answer, only to be treated to a close-up of her snarling, bleach-heavy upper lip).

Just as the cell phone was the adulterer’s best friend, the video phone is the mistress’ nightmare. As every sex-line worker knows, it’s easy to feign orgasmic rapture while eradicating toe jam. In Italy, that particularly forgiving brand of the feminine mystique is now as passé as last year’s Fendi jeans.

I had always prided myself on a dirty, late-night purr, on tap if needed at 11 a.m.; I could do sexy while hanging out the laundry. Italian men now want to look as well as listen. And if Jane Jetson’s robo-beautician style was once a prerequisite for Milanese streets, lovers are now obliged to air-brushed porn perfection in the former sanctum of their apartments.

With the Nokia 6680 resolution at 176-by-208 pixels, makeup is essential but it is not the kind of HDTV definition that makes you wonder about the expertise of Cameron Diaz’s dermatologist.

It does, however, make smoothing over the fault lines of a late-night necessary before heading to the newsstand. Italians don’t do natural; I have enough trouble curbing comments on my personal appearance from Franca, the troll who collects the mail — let alone trying to be bella with co-workers, my accountant and a possibly significant other when they video-phone at all hours.

Watching more television could have curbed my fall. Current Italian ads for 3G phones feature a pneumatic Marilyn Monroe type begging a departing lover, “Videochiamami!” Honey, if you look like that in person, you don’t need to video-phone.

Photo by Mika Baumeister on Unsplash

Tuscany trumped in Italian ‘happiness’ index

www.zoomata.com staff There is no more joy under the Tuscan sun for Italians.
Olive trees, rolling hills and Chianti aren’t enough to combat high prices, traffic problems and a tight work market. For the 1,500 Italians polled by an association of psychologists (ISPA), happiness and quality of life are lowest in the Tuscan region of Siena and other picturesque places like Urbino, Pesaro and Piacenza.

Visitors seeking bliss in the Bel Paese would do well to get to know places like Rieti, a town of about 40,000 people in Lazio whose claim to fame is Piazza San Rufo, thought to be the exact center of Italy.

Rieti tops the happiness-quotient at 145 out of a possible 200, followed by Imperia (Liguria) and Baroque jewel Lecce, in the heel of the country’s boot.
The rest of the top scorers are central-northern towns, mostly off the beaten track: Sondrio (Lombardy), Treviso (Veneto) and Perugia (Umbria).

Psychologists asked Italians polled to evaluate the environment, food, services, work, traffic, noise pollution, roads and, lastly, the quality of neighborly and interpersonal relations.

Frowns abound in Italian cities, where the average resident ranked quality of life at just 79 on the scale. ?text 1999-2005 zoomata.com This is an original news story. Play nice. Please use contact form for reprint/reuse info.

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Italian hopes to stomp Chinese imports with gladiator shoes

by Nicole Martinelli Italians are following in Roman footsteps with hand-made sandals and boots worthy of Julius Cesar, thanks to one shoemaker.

“Romans were practical people who walked a lot, so I was curious to see what they wore,” Anna Piergiacomi, owner of a company that makes shoe uppers, told zoomata via email. “I’ve been making shoes for ages but it seems to me that they are less and adapted to our feet.”

Piergiacomi, who is also vice-president of the leather-shoe division of the national fashion association Federmoda, hopes to start a trend that will ease the squeeze Chinese imports have put on Italian shoes.
It may be a noble but losing battle: footwear imported from China to the European Union surged 700 percent from January to April 2005, the EU’s executive commission said earlier this month. Italian trade associations estimate 8,000 jobs were lost as a result.

Fortunately for Piergiacomi, Italy has plenty of ancient Roman culture under foot. Urbisaglia, where she lives in the Marches, grew out of the ruins of Roman city Urbis Salvia and is choc-a-block with clues to life from that period.

With the help of friends, mainly an archeologist at the nearby university and several history buffs, Piergiacomi found out all she needed to know about Roman-era foot wear.

Armed with info, Piergiacomi went to the drawing board. Among her designs are a modern rendition of caliga, worn in Roman times by soldiers and laborers with iron hobnails designed to withstand miles of marching, the delicate sola originally meant to be worn only at home and a slinky calceo, the choice for toga-clad big wigs, in patrician red.

After trekking her models to both an orthopedic specialist and a foot expert to see if they were street worthy, she set about trying to make them without too much modern interference. The gladiator shoes have no glue, no synthetic materials, no chemical dyes and are sewn mostly by hand.

Walking like a Roman in sandals will set you back circa 50 euro ($60), boots cost up to 180 euro ($216). ?photos + text 1999-2005 zoomata.comThis is an original news story. Play nice. Please use contact form for reprint/reuse info.

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www.lucinacalzature.it

www.urbisaglia.com
The Roman amphitheater of Urbisalia, home to summer theater and Roman-style gala dinner in July.

Italian city workers take ‘gay rights’ classes

zoomata.com staff A stone’s throw from the Vatican, city employees in Rome are taking seminars to give them a better understanding of gay rights.
Called a preventative measure against homophobia, participants in the six-session course are workers from the office for relations with the public (URP).

The course is the brainchild of Mariella Gramaglia, city councilor responsible for communications and equal opportunities, who has over the years led a series of anti-discrimination measures in the Eternal City. Courses, led by a team of activists and academics, started June 15. Gramaglia hopes to export the program in the fall to another 19 towns in Italy.

“Rome isn’t just an city open to art, but it is a city with an open mind,” she said. “We targeted people who are on the front lines for dealing with the public, it is a first for Italy.”

Her words may have rattled the papal scepter just a few miles away in the Vatican.
Recently-appointed Pope Benedict XVI is seen by many as a foe of gay rights, as a cardinal he once called homosexuality a “tendency ordered toward an intrinsic moral evil.”
The battle for separation between church and state in Italy is bound to be a long one. With the backing of the Pope, the church successfully mounted a boycott of the June referendum to ease Italy’s strict fertility laws. ? text 1999-2005 zoomata.com
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Smelling sweet: Italians perfume city

zoomata.com staff Clean streets are not enough for one Italian city, officials have decided they should smell good too.
Billed as a scent makeover for Genoa’s narrow medieval streets, called caruggi and maligned for centuries as havens for stale smells, the local trash company has decided to spruce up the city for summer visitors.

Streets will be cleaned and scented every day until September 15, according to this “decorum plan” laid out in a press release.

The real question is the perfume itself: this is a city by the sea and known for basil-laden pesto sauce but the streets will waft with a pine odor reminiscent of the mountains.

In recent years, the Italian concern for pleasing appearance, bella figura has been extended to city smells. Residents of San Giuliano Milanese, about 13 km (8 miles) from Milan, are treated to relaxing or invigorating scents as they wait in line in city offices. ? text 1999-2005 zoomata.com
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Italian monuments: a bright future as billboards

by Nicole Martinelli

Imagine the Coliseum sporting a McDonald’s billboard. Or maybe the Tower of Pisa draped in an ad for dirty denim. Or Michelangelo’s David perhaps hawking Calvin Klein underwear.

It’s not as far off as it sounds. Rome’s Pantheon will get a fix-up thanks to advertising sold on scaffolding and officials throughout the country are grappling with the ethical problem of financing much-needed restorations by using monuments as giant billboards.Italy is chock-a-block with monuments, UNESCO estimates the Bel Paese holds 60% of the world’s art treasures, but unfortunately does not have the budget to maintain them.

Case in point, Florence Renaissance jewel church Santissima Annunziata. Italian media recently reported that the roof has such a steady leak it is ‘raining’ inside but there is no money for repairs. The city government is responsible for 12 churches; fixing damage to this church would eat up 25% of the meager maintenance budget.

Yet the same Florentines protested when an ad featuring a sexy pouting model advertising a brand of watches went up on the scaffolding in front of the Bishop’s Residence in the religious center of the city, Piazza Duomo. The diocesan administration, somewhat embarrassed by the brouhaha, said they were just trying to find a way to finance the work.

Some see saving art through advertising as a question of practicality.

“Let’s face it, when they started charging tourists entrance fees churches became museums, not places of worship,” architect and Florence resident Dario Notari told zoomata. “Now they are splitting hairs. If only every art work could find a sponsor, Italy would be in good shape.”

Environmental protection group Italia Nostra is of the same opinion, having gathered up enough money to restore the Pantheon in Rome with an ad scheme. They recently criticized city officials for refusing to restore more monuments through ads and imposing size restrictions on those they did accept, Italian daily Corriere della Sera reported. After a billboard selling cosmetics was plastered over the front of Trinit? dei monti church, city officials have decided to review the policy and handpick ‘appropriate’ ads.

Halfway measures don’t seem to please anyone. In Milan, the enormous gothic cathedral sports a somewhat discreet side billboard for a cell phone service. It’s not large enough to finance the restoration of the facade but its presence doesn’t go down well with the Milanese.

“What’s next? A church should not be a place for advertising,” passerby Luigi Mancini, 73, told zoomata. “What bothers me most is that we may come to accept it, to not see it any more.”

In fact, scandals broke out in both Milan and Florence last year when alert citizens noticed that restorations were finished, but the scaffolding stayed. The reason? There was still plenty of money to be made from giant ads on the facades.?photos + text 1999-2005 zoomata.com
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Italian traffic ‘electrified’ by microcars

zoomata.com staff

Tough new driving laws passed by the Italian government last year — including a points license and the introduction of a license for scooters — have left many in Italian cities without wheels. Public transportation, famously crowded and unreliable, simply isn’t a practical option.

The solution? Electric microcars. They require no license, are easy to park and are allowed to circulate in limited traffic areas — called ZTLs — practically the entire heart of the city.
Visitors are fast catching on to the fact that with these second cousins of the Smart car, thankfully blessed with automatic transmission, they can sidle up to the Pantheon or take spin around the Trevi fountain without the expense of a taxi. Prices range from 32 – 50 euro ($39-61USD) per day, comparable to compact rental car rates, but microcars can be rented by the day making them the choice for Italians on shopping jaunts. Electric cars can go 100 chilometers of in-town driving — they’re not allowed on the autostrada — before having to be recharged.

Golf carts, though they do require a driving license, are another option. Going golf in Rome for example costs more than a microcar – at 15 euro ($18 USD) an hour – but they are a valid option for those looking for a slower (they reach speeds of 25 kilometers/15 miles per hour) and wider means of transportation.
One caveat: electric cars are so popular it is worth making a reservation before arriving.?1999-2005 zoomata.com
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Whales pump up the volume due to noise pollution off Italian coast

zoomata.com staff It will be an especially loud mating season off Northern Italy’s Ligurian coast where whales have hit a new frequency to make themselves heard over noise pollution, an Italian government research group reported.

For three years researchers with ICRAM, a research group of the Italian Ministry of the Environment and Cornell University, registered the songs of fin whales, finding that because of noise pollution in these Mediterranean waters mammals have been forced to take it up a notch.

“These are some of the noisiest waters in the world,” said Fabrizio Bersani, head researcher at ICRAM. “Thanks to heavy traffic from merchant ships, the decibel levels have more than doubled since the 1980s.”

The result? New, louder sounds capable of being heard above the din. Whales normally make two kinds of infra sounds, noises lower than humans can hear, one researchers called the classic note and one lower note. A new third note, the highest ever recorded, was discovered recently.

Researchers used underwater recording devices placed from 600 to 2,000 meters under water to record some 20,000 hours of songs. Only the male of the species sing to define their territory and to attract females during mating season, from February to March.

Borsani hopes that the sheaves of data collected during the years of the study will prove that noise pollution is real and has lasting effects on marine life. “We can now provide hard scientific evidence, instead of just estimates, on the level of noise pollution,” he said.? text 1999-2005 zoomata.com
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