Italian Food: An Acquired Taste?

Though it’s hard to believe that anyone — especially the locals — would find Italian food an acquired taste, a new series of classes are aimed at teaching Italians how to enjoy what may be the world’s most popular cuisine.
These so-called ‘taste seminars’ will soon be offered in Bologna, Modena and Parma — home to tortellini, balsamic vinegar and parmesan cheese — and are targeted to students and adults, with the aim to train the palate and initiate a closer acquaintance with local specialties.
The taste classes are the latest in a series of protective measures to ensure Italians don’t abandon the traditional Mediterranean diet.
Officials are willing to try anything to buck the trend of Italians eating more like their American counterparts — from a special symbol given by the government to restaurants where the food is healthy to abolishing the school bus for overweight children. Mayor and physician Filippo Vigano, from Albiate near Milan, appalled at the number of chubby children in his area announced last week that riding the bus to school was ‘off limits.’

"We’re losing what used to be good Italian habits — we eat the wrong foods and are becoming too sedentary, " he said. "For most of the kids, it’s about a mile walk and it would do them good."

The problem is that harried Bel Paese residents are eating faster, out more and relying on frozen or precooked foods. According to a 2002 survey by Astra Demoskopea only 24% of Italian adults cook one meal a day for themselves or the family, 55% of 14-19 year olds eat something pre-fabbed every day — hardly the stereotype of the mamma and family reuinited for lengthy meals. Though US obesity adult rates are currently about twice as high as those in Italy, the rates for obesity in Italian children, currently 25%, are among the highest in Europe.

Even though habits are changing, Italians are not likely to give up entirely the bounty of the national diet. Movements like slow food, started in Turin in 1977 to counteract the appeal of fast food, are becoming increasingly popular — offering excellent guide books to regional foods and wines, specialized seminars, food fairs and a network of ‘slow cities.’ ?1999-2004 zoomata.com

Zoomata is the brainchild of a bilingualjournalist based in Italy who thinks out of the box. This brain is for hire.Related resources:
Slow Food: Collected Thoughts on Taste, Tradition, and the Honest Pleasures of Food

Italy by Numbers: Changing Food Habits

Italian study finds Hot Peppers Aid Digestion

Italy by Numbers: Daily Bread

300 regional specialties of Italian bread
-20 kilos (44 lbs.) consumed per family, since 1998
4.3 days, Italians bought bread (1998)
6.7 days, Italians bought bread (2002)

Once considered a culinary sin to dine without bread, Italians are getting out of the habit of using it to sop up sauce, accompany meat or clear the palate after a cheese course. Instead of picking up fresh bread from the local baker’s every few days, an increasing number of busy Bel Paese inhabitants are picking up less bread at longer intervals.
The number of families who pick up packaged breads at supermarkets is also on the rise — up to 26%, while those who visit bakers has dropped 6% over the last four years, according to a Nielsen study.

Alarmed by drop in bread consumption, some 30 cities and towns recently formed an association to preserve and promote traditional breads. The new-born Altopascio Associazione Città del Pane bands together places like Genoa (famous for various forms of foccaccia) and Altamura, which bakes a durum wheat bread of the same name, in Puglia.
Italian lawmakers have already tried to guard ‘pane tradizionale’ with a stricter law, protecting it like D.O.C. wines, but little has come of the proposal. The study cited eating on the run as part of the reason for a demise in what Italians call ‘the white art’ (l’arte bianca), with some 55% of Italians saying they can’t resist eating between meals and that means pre-made snacks.

 

Related resources:
Italian Food Artisans: Traditions and Recipes
Learning from the old ways…

http://italianfood.miningco.com/blind4.htm
From Friselle to pizza to brioches, the skinny on Italian bread, with basic recipies. (In English).

www.atlanteparchi.com/indici/prodotti/pani.html
Guide to traditional products & who makes them, this is the bread section. (In Italian)

Italian recipies using stale bread:
pappa al pomodoro
panzanella

Italian Town Holds Grape Stomping Workshop

In an effort to raise an interest in dying traditions, a town near Naples held three days of back-to-basics lessons on the fall harvest, including a grape-stomping workshop for kids.

Cicciano, 30 kilometers from Naples, was livened up with an estimated 600 purple-legged youngsters as they learned to crush grapes to make wine like their ancestors did. Grown-ups, including Mayor Giuseppe Caccavale, were on hand to explain that small feet tread lightly on grapes — and are less likely to crush the seeds making the must bitter. A series of "antique" harvesting tools once common in Italy were also on display, next to high-tech machinery currently in use.

"In an area that is 65% farm lands we thought it important for our children to discover the old methods," said city councilor Giuseppe Itri. "The agricultural economy is in a moment of profound crisis, so we wanted to bring home the importance of continuing to work the land using new technological methods but with the unique pleasure of being in contact with nature."

*Photo courtesy Comune di Cicciano

Related resources:
Italian tips: Talk your way around a glass of wine

Burton Anderson’s Best Wines of Italy

Italy by Numbers: Time for a Bite to Eat

1 hour, meal (Palermo)
45 min. (Naples)
35 min (Rome)
18 min. (Milan)

Italy’s North-South divide starts at the table — only Sicilians are taking an hour for lunch at home with la mamma. According to this poll by a diet magazine of 600 Italians from ages 20 – 55 in ten major cities, there is a marked difference between what Italians from different parts of the country consider a good meal. For the sandwich-inhaling Milanese, a repast should be "quick" and "light" while the more leisurely residents of Southern Italy say it should be "abundant" "tasty" and "slow."

Despite being the country that launched the international Slow Food movement in 1977, Italians are eating faster and eating out more. In Southern Italy, 75% are eating with family at home, in Central Italy 67% prefer a trattoria while in Northern Italy sandwich shops and ethnic food (64% and 50% respectively) are quickly gaining ground. ?1999-2004 zoomata.com

Zoomata is the brainchild of a bilingualjournalist based in Italy who thinks out of the box. This brain is for hire.

Related resources:

Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking

Boycotting the Pizza Strike

Go ahead and protest — but hands off the sacred pizza. The latest consumer strike against price hikes touched Italy’s most famous dish met and sparked vehement protests from Naples, birthplace of the pizza Margherita. Consumer association Aduc declared Sept. 21 as a day of abstinence from pizza after calculating that the average pie swells 920% in price by the time it reaches the plate.

According to calculations made by Aduc, ingredients for a seven- ounce pizza Margherita – made from good-quality flour, tomato, mozzarella and basil – costs .49 euro but customers shell out at least 5 euro for the end product. The exhorbitant mark up was also due to the intrucdution of the euro in January — according to official statistics Italy’s inflation in August was 2.4 per cent, but consumer associations calculate the actual increase is at least 8%.

The association was inundated with email threats from angry pizzeria owners as well as a formal letter from Antonio Pace the president of FIPE (the Italian Federation of Bars and Catering) which accused them of "acting in bad faith to procure a moment of glory."

News of the strike recieved a ton of media coverage but didn’t stop tourists and residents alike from shovelling away the fare at the Naples Pizzafest — organizers said attendance was up by 6% over last year.

Related Resources:
Pizza Napoletana!
Make the true Italian pie in your home, with cookbook author and Italian resident Pamela Sheldon-Johns…

Mushroom Boom

It’s a small consolation for wine lovers, but at least the summer rains were good for something: mushrooms. Wine producers are already predicting Italy’s lowest harvest in decades thanks to rain and hailstorms in what are usually the hottest months — but the same farmer’s group, Coldiretti, is predicting that it will be a record harvest for mushrooms.

This year’s extra dampness is likely to spawn some 30 thousand tons of mushrooms. Favorable weather conditions may help drive down somewhat the hefty price for truffles, which reached a reached a record last year of $100 for an etto (about 3.5 ounces). Experts are already warning Italians, the most numerous amateur mushroom gatherers in Europe, to have baskets checked by local health officials before eating.

www.mangiarebene.com/accademia/spuntini/toast/crostini_funghi.html
Quick recipe for a great way to eat them — crostini….

The Return of Olive Oil Cosmetics

A new campaign promotes what grandma already knew — olive oil has many uses outside the kitchen. The Italian agricultural association, Coldiretti, felt it was time to remind inhabitants of the Bel Paese that extra virgin olive oil can be used to soften skin, obtain shiny hair and even remove stubborn ear wax.

Use of olive oil as a cosmetic stretches back to the Egyptians, who used this ‘gift from the Gods’ as an anti-wrinkle cream, while Greeks favored it as a massage oil for athletes and Romans as an after-spa treatment. Archeologists have deduced from the silver oil vessels that olive oil was only for the most wealthy of citizens, but today the staple of every kitchen makes for an inexpensive beauty boost.
Some recipes for do-it-yourself treatments promoted in the public awareness campaign: mix with neutral henna and egg yolks for a regenerating hair mask, combine it with a few drops of lemon to reinforce nails, let it steep with chamomile tea for a month to produce a balm for sore muscles or reddened skin and last but not least, 20 drops of tepid oil will melt even the toughest earwax. ?1999-2004 zoomata.com

Zoomata is the brainchild of a bilingualjournalist based in Italy who thinks out of the box. This brain is for hire.

Related resources:
Olive Oil: From Tree to Table
More on ‘liquid gold’ and how to best use it in your kitchen…

Convincing Italians to Eat Ice Cream

Hard to imagine why Italians have to be coaxed into eating ice cream — but gelato makers hope to tempt them this summer with flavors like limoncello, Barbera and special concoctions named after new saint Padre Pio, the Italian first lady and the World Cup.

Italians lag far behind European counterparts in gelato consumption largely because, much like seasonal fruit, it is only enjoyed in the proper moment — in this case the hottest months. In many colder climes, the dessert is eaten year round — in Denmark and Sweden each person eats 12.4 liters a year, in the UK 8.9, while in Italy the average person has only 5.5 liters.

Many new flavors are alcohol inspired — such as a tangy sweet limoncello or ice cream tasting of San Giovese and Barbera wines.
Novelty creations abound: tricolor for the world cup (vanilla topped with green and red cherries), Padre Pio (vin santo and almonds), and last but not least the Coppa Franca, named after Franca Pilla, wife of President Carlo Azeglio Ciampi. In the case of the first lady, each ingredient of the sweet confection corresponds to an aspect of her personality: cream for sweetness, coffee for strength, chocolate for love of fellow mankind and, finally, eggnog for energy.

Related resources:
Gelato! Italian Ice Cream, Sorbetti & Granite
Get the true scoop with Tuscan resident Pamela Sheldon Johns…

 

Italy by Numbers: Changing Food Habits

3-4 hours, daily food preparation (1952)
30-60 minutes, daily food preparation (2002)
15 kg meat per capita, yearly (1952)
49.5 kg meat per capita (2002)
104 liters, per person wine consumption (1952)
52liters, per person wine consumption (2002)

Rapid changes after the postwar period are in turn responsible for revolutionizing Italian eating habits, breaking some long-standing stereotypes. In the early 1950s, the Italian mamma spent a good chunk of her day preparing a hearty lunch, while her new millennium counterpart, less likely to be a stay at home mother, spends just a third of that time in the kitchen.
Fifty years ago, Italians spent half of the family income on food, in recent times it takes up some 20% of the budget. Meat consumption has more than tripled, while wine drinking has been cut by half. According to the study by Federalimentare, Italians are on average 15 centimeters taller, live between 13-15 years longer and around half are overweight.
Some staples of the Italian postwar diet that have now disappeared include smoked herring (often eaten with polenta), tinned milk and carob beans (sucked like candy).

Related resources:
Celebrating Italy — Food & Traditions
Recipes and folklore from the Bel Paese

Celebrating Wine Day

Italians will take to the vineyards Sunday May 26, when over 900 wineries from Trentino to Sicily open cellar doors for an international celebration started in 1993.

Wine tourism is a growing industry, the association organizing the event estimates that 3.5 million visitors a year tour wineries (1 million will take part in the open cellars initiative) and rate it as the third reason tourists come to Italy.
Related resources:
www.movimentoturismovino.it
To tip your tipple in the worldwide toast, find the participating wineries in Italy or around the globe at the official site for the “Movimento Turismo del Vino.”
Dust off your wine/drinking vocab with our face-saving guide: www.zoomata.com/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid=543