Why Italians already have capsule wardrobes

Struggling with a plastic bag on the stairs the other day, I stopped to peer into the apartment of the downstairs neighbor.

Alessandra’s singleton digs have an entryway with a floor-to-ceiling white wardrobe. All the wardrobe doors were flung open and my neighbor was sandwiched between a drying rack of clothes and an ironing board.

Cambio di stagione?” I asked.

“Exactly,” she sighed.

“Me too,” I said, holding up the trash bag.

It’s that time of year, when Italians go through their wardrobes and change clothes for the upcoming season. When they talk about “cambio di stagione”, change of season, isn’t so much about the weather but all about the clothes.

There is a built-in minimalist approach in Italy, because there are no walk-in or built-in closets here. No voluntary simplicity movement or feng shui space clearing necessary. It’s called “lack of space.”

Storage in the average Italian home (apartments and even newer small villas and condos) means, generally, one large wardrobe and regular-sized dresser per bedroom, possibly another wardrobe or cabinets in a hallway or tiny utility room.

That’s it.

At the beginning and end of every season, you edit what’s in your closet, mend or alter if needed, wash the lot and pack it away in boxes. Then you take out the next season’s gear, see what fits, what should be given away, iron everything and hang it up.

This is not natural behavior for me, raised with American walk-in closets and three-car garages. The grandfather I was named after had so much stuff he kept a junk yard for it. Following decades of construction work in California and a house-moving business (back when they literally picked up houses and moved them) he had accumulated, among other things, stained glass window fragments, carcasses of machines past, old duck decoys and girlie calendars from the ’40s that no one could bear to throw out.

In high school, I never had to shop for “vintage” clothes. The spare bedroom walk-in closet, jammed with an unholy mix of full-length “Mod Squad“-worthy leather jackets and plaid Pendleton shirts with put-your-eye-out flare collars, was a million times better.

Fast forward to life in Italy, where living out of a suitcase became a necessity. At first, the wardrobe concept was really cute. My borrowed Samsonite didn’t hold that much, anyway, and what little there was fit neatly into the nicked, crooked wooden wardrobe of my student apartment.

For the bulk of years here, I’ve moved about once every six months, but that didn’t keep me from the familial habit of hunting and gathering Stuff. It was a hard tendency to break. Outdoor markets, junk stores, jettison from other expats returning home – suitcases became the place to store these necessary extras so there would be more room in the restrictive wardrobe.

After pulling an electric blue Louise Brooks wig, an aborted sewing project, extra towels and a blackened travel iron out of a much bigger suitcase before packing to go to the U.S. a couple of Christmases ago, I decided to change my ways.

Thanks to closet organizers and storage boxes, the change of season became less traumatic: no more turtleneck sweaters under jean jackets because the coat has gone missing.

Turns out that clothes purging is just as much fun as clothes binging. The closet now looks a bit like Lucy’s from the “Peanuts”, three nearly identical togs hanging up, not even touching each other. It’s reassuring, to open a door and not have stuff tumble out.

Still, every season has its bad buys, bad fits and can’t-look-at-one-more-times. Out they go.

Out There: What’s up with laundry in Italy?

I rented an apartment once in Florence whose only real attraction was a dryer. It was an exciting prospect: no more damp racks of clothes for days on end when it was too cold or rainy or foggy to hang them off the balcony to dry.

Drip Dry? Patriotic laundry in Milan.

It was a doll-sized washer/dryer combo, the brand name appropriately “Candy.” The idea was that it would wash the clothes AND dry them. Great. Except that while it could wash the minuscule amount that passes as a normal load of laundry in Europe, it could only dry maybe a third of that.
In the end, it was employed on special occasions to get those last two clammy hand towels slightly crispy. And even then I nervously watched it chug along, wondering whether the Little Dryer that Could, would.
I moved out shortly after making this discovery.
Much to my amusement, two guys in here in Milan recently started mixing weather forecasts with a mathematical formula they crafted to arrive at an online “drying index” for laundry hung out alfresco. The higher the number on a scale of 1-100, the faster your sheets dry.
Before hanging out the togs, you can check at a glance current temperature, cloud cover, a humidity rating and times for sunrise and sunset. Some straightforward advice then follows the numbers: if it looks like rain, the site advises: “If I were you, I’d put my clothes under a roof to dry.”
They also text message it to you for free, great idea for a country where cell phone saturation is among the highest in the world and where weather is taken so seriously that until a few years ago only military meteorologists did TV forecasts.
Both of the inventors are half Italian – one American and one French – and the fact that their mothers both came from countries with dryers helped spur the idea, one of them told me.
The laundry index worked, despite a predicted 50% chance rain when I tried it, it’ll be interesting to see whether it will be reliable enough to leave the togs hanging out when winter creeps in.

Italian men get domestic

Italian stallions are now happily giving a hand around the house, according to a recent poll.
Some 66% percent of Italian men are “precise” and “accurate” in the chores they do and 44% of men say they are willing to split the chores with their partners, according to a survey by Procter & Gamble and Astra research.
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Cloistered nuns open up with webcam* (*maybe)

A group of Italian cloistered nuns, who already run a website, want to hook the convent up with a webcam.

It’s a great story. Reaching out to the world with new technology in a place that, historically, used to be a kind of prison for the troubled, troublesome or often unwanted daughters of wealthy families.

But one thing I’ve learned with years of reading the Italian press is that they rarely let hard facts get in the way of a good tale. The combination of webcam girls – those teenagers who adopt sexually provocative poses for friends – and strangers, often for money or gifts – with the group also known as “brides of Christ” seemed, uh, interesting.

The whopper about the Canadian officials arriving in Italy to spread around the fortune of a bootlegging emigrant is a classic example of how what makes it into Italian papers won’t hold up after only a few phone calls.

A lot of journalism basics — getting your who, what, when, where and whys straight — seem to be optionals.

Anyway, after reading and re-reading the story titled “Webcam Enters Cloisters,” I thought I’d better investigate before pitching. The article didn’t exactly say the webcam was installed. And it side-stepped when exactly this might happen.

I was in New York — keeping busy with the World Cup and ranting about flip-flops — so I sent an email to the convent asking about the webcam.

Then promptly forgot about it, until “cybernun” Sister Antonella, who also runs the web site of the Dominican order, answered my email:

“We’ve got plans for a web cam on the drawing board..but I don’t know yet when it will happen.

The idea would be to install a webcam in the church so it would broadcast some moments of prayer.

I can’t tell you much more at the moment, these kind of projects have to be duly thought through and properly considered.” (my quick translation).

Ah. So maybe. It’s worth keeping tabs on, even though the story doesn’t stand a chance in hell.

She ended her email by telling me she’ll put me in her prayers, which beats the heck out of those legal disclaimers you get most of the time.

Italians Streets Get Clean, Cars Stay Put

By Nicole Martinelli
Carwash You’ve just come from a party after staying a little later than expected. Although slightly bleary-eyed, you have no trouble finding your car: It’s the only one in the street. With a big, fat ticket on the windshield serving as a reminder to always check the street-cleaning signs.

For some forgetful folks in Milan, this will be just a memory. The city recently started experimenting with a system that cleans underneath parked cars. A powerful jet of water that pushes out debris will end the game of musical parking spaces played by the drivers of 16,000 cars every week.

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Florence finds its courtesy point

FlorenceSince native son Dante pronounced them a malicious, miserly and ungrateful lot in the Inferno, Florentines have not enjoyed a reputation for friendliness.

City officials hope to change this with the “Courtesy Point” initiative. The tourists that double and sometimes treble the local population can look for this special orange logo written in English to find visitor-friendly establishments.

In a town where it is easier to stumble upon a Renaissance treasure than find a working pay phone or a café owner who doesn’t keep the rest room under lock and key, the idea is long overdue. A detailed map, free at tourist information centers, shows what amenities besides courtesy are available, including disabled access, taxi booking and bus tickets.

There are 76 establishments currently adhering, ranging from historic hangout of Futurist artists Le Giubbe Rosse to hipster club Cardillac Cafè. Business owners were inspired perhaps more by incentives than a philosophy about random acts of kindness: they were given non-recoverable grants to spruce up locales, especially the rest rooms.

Trash journalism, Italian style

Curiosity can lead to a lot of uncomfortable places. I decided to give up entertainment reporting while crouched in the stairwell of L.A.’s Mondrian hotel on an assignment that had me stalking Leonardo Di Caprio at the height of his “Titanic” fame.
This time, I was in a bad part of Milan at 1:40 a.m. To be precise, Piazzale Loreto — the place they strung Mussolini up by his toes — waiting for a trash truck.

As far as I could make out, I was the only member of the fair sex in the area that wasn’t practicing the world’s oldest profession — but tell that to the men buzzing around the all-night newsstand.
Despite the precedents, curiosity had again got the better of me. I don’t have a car. I don’t even have a driver’s license anymore. But I was writing about a new gizmo that Amsa, Milan’s cleaning and sanitation department, patented to clean under parked cars. And I really wanted to see it in action.
I don’t mean to sound too Brenda Starr-intrepid-girl-reporter. The press office had first said the crew using the experimental “facilitator” — that may end the game of musical parking spaces played by drivers of 16,000 cars every week — would be in my neighborhood that night.

Master blaster: the facilitator pumps 4 gallons a minute

Then they called back to say that it would only be in Bad Part of Town. I’d already promised to turn the story around the next day and the facilitator only came to my neighborhood once a week. It was Piazzale Loreto or nothing.
Trash trucks are something most of us never pay attention to. They seem very much alike, especially if you’re standing in an enormous roundabout trying desperately to see which one is different.
Sure, they come in different shapes and sizes — some little trucks with round sweepers out front, some with enormous cisterns — but I didn’t know what the new, improved cleaner was supposed to look like.
To make matters more interesting, the press officer had warned me not to expect warm fuzzies from the crew. “I’ll tell them you’re coming, otherwise I can’t guarantee they’ll talk to you. They can be not very polite sometimes.”
That sounded like an understatement. With this caveat in mind, I approached all the trash cars at the stoplights to ask if they were “my” crew. Perhaps it was the damsel in distress factor, but they were all better than polite.
They didn’t know where the crew would be, but they did start a tam-tam of cell phone calls that eventually helped me locate them.
When I did, it seemed that press officer had perhaps overstated the scale of operations. They weren’t expecting me, with a camera and notebook, but an American Television Crew. Amsa had even sent out an executive to make sure no one misbehaved. He watched, dapper suit and tie now drooping in disappointment at my sole snapping and filming.
The two-man crew of the facilitator were gracious and helpful, even letting me try out the new device (harder to use than it looks but very effective) that pushes four gallons of water a minute of debris out from under the car and into the street where it’s whisked away by the truck.
At 2:25 a.m., curiosity satisfied, I called a taxi and headed home. Sometimes it’s worth it.

Milan celebrates Blue victory

World Cup

Hundreds of thousands of normally sane Milanese crowded the city center to fete an agonizingly close World Cup victory of Italy’s Azzurri over France’s Les Bleus.

Everyone got in the act, trams clanged in response to car horns and even the firemen waved Tricolor flags from trucks.

Who’s blue now?

Peace: just another flag?

Peace flagTattered and faded, a few rainbow peace flags continue to fly from balconies across Europe.

The flag proclaiming “Pace” (Peace) in Italian made its way to Germany, Austria, Switzerland, Spain and Brussels, first to protest the war in Afghanistan and later the war against Iraq. A symbol of anti-war sentiment bandied about during hundreds of demonstrations, the first were seen during protests of the 2001 G8 meeting in Genoa Italy. Continue reading