Italy Transport Strike: Where’s the Pasta?

supermarket strike 2Truck drivers demanding government subsidies to meet rising fuel costs mean closed gas stations and empty shelves in pharmacies and grocery stores across Italy.

Strikers are vowing not to hit the roads again until December 14, but three days into the protest, my local supermarket in Milan already looks like the scene of wartime famine: there was no fresh fruit or vegetables and only a few half pints of milk left.

Strikes in Italy are a frequent nuisance but generally polite — sure, you may have to re-arrange a few appointments or leave work early but you’re still going to be able to get on with it.

supermarket strike

But as Bloomberg reports, things are different this time around:
The strike will cost food producers 200 million euros ($294 million) a day because of delays in the delivery of milk, fruit, vegetables and meat, according to the Italian agricultural association. Pharmacists warned yesterday that they may run out of medicine.

Touch Italians and food, though, and things suddenly become serious.

New Year’s Eve In Venice: One Big Kiss

VeniceThe canals and narrow streets of Venice have long been known to breed romance, but for the first time 60,000 people will seal the reputation of Italy’s most romantic city by kissing on New Year’s eve.

Called LoVe 2008 (the VE = stands for Venice), it’s the brainchild of Marco Balich, a Venetian known for a deft hand at video clips and as the executive producer for the 2006 Turin Olympics.

Casanova, La Serenissima’s poster child for the more debauched side of love, would probably sneer at the event. Organizers are casting for 100 camera-ready couples (a multi-ethnic assortment of the young, attractive and straight?) to be immortalized as they kiss at midnight.

Still, it does give people milling around in St. Mark’s square other to do than ogle each other and set off fireworks.

According to news reports, it’ll work like this: at 10:45 p.m. on December 31, 200 kissing couples will kick off the lip action. At 11 p.m., everyone does a practice lip-smack. At 11:45, another trial kiss (who said Italians don’t take romance seriously?) followed by a countdown accompanied by a “medley of love songs.” Twenty seconds into 2008, the collective kiss.

Just remember the Chapstick.

Italy Opens First Design Museum

Triennale Design Museum

A quick look at Milan’s new museum of design at the Triennale, which opened today.

First impression: it’s a little dark (maybe just opening night glam?) and an little sparse.
There are 400 objects, from Vespas and Moka coffee makers to Kartell plastic chairs and the Olivetti “Valentina” typewriter, that I remember seeing in just one room on a rotating basis before the new space. It’s been hailed as Italy’s first dedicated design museum, but takes up only one refurbed part (2,000 square meters, about 21, 500 square feet) of the cavernous Fascist-style building in Sempione Park.

Triennale moka

Architect Andrea Branzi, with enough rings around his trunk to have worked with many top-tier names in Italian design, curated the collection which includes pieces from Alessi, Achille Castiglioni, Ettore Sottsass and Zanuso. Instead of printed paper signs, little computer screens provide background info and dates on the works — for the moment only in Italian.

Triennale Design Museum Kartell room

The main room, which contributes much to the murky underwater feel of the place, is a multimedia “overture” by movie director Peter Greenaway, lots of naked bodies shot on transparent screens called “the body is design” (“il corpo è il design.”) Mah. Themes and exhibits will change every year during design week.

Michele De Lucchi created the most interesting part: a transparent walkway perfect for people watching.

Tickets are 11 euros, price includes a catalog.
Triennale Design Museum

Questionable Holiday Greetings from Oliviero Toscani

Oliviero Toscani tshirt Shock fotog Oliviero Toscani’s latest exploit is a limited edition T-shirt for the holidays that says “It’s Christmas? Shall we F***?” in Italian (E’ Natale? Scopiamo?) with his name under it.

It’ll be sure to liven up the otherwise soporific unveiling of Christmas lights in Milan shopping mecca Via della Spiga, where the tees with celebrity slogans go on sale for charity (€60, circa $90) Thursday.

While some of his recent projects (the spiffy privy, the naked anorexic clothing campaign) make me long for his Benetton ads, Toscani gets some credit for shaking things up.

His message, which reportedly made Milan mayor Letizia Moratti blush, certainly tops the other ones: you couldn’t pay me to wear designer Roberto Cavalli’s which says “Santa Claus exists…”

Milan Turns “International” Movie Set

TheMost Milan residents don’t blink when standing next to a 10-foot, 20-pound model at the supermarket and they’re pretty used to dodging sidewalk photo shoots as if they were trash.

Not a lot of major Hollywood productions choose Milan as a backdrop, though, so the city held a special presser to boast that “The International” directed by Tom Tykwer (“Perfume,” “Lola Runs”) starring Naomi Watts and Clive Owen has come to town. (Watts and Owen snapped here with president of the Lombardy regional government, Roberto Formigoni).

The plot? Owen (an Interpol agent) and Watts (a Manhattan district attorney) are on a whirlwind investigation to uncover a corrupt banking scheme that finances an arms dealing ring, bringing them to Berlin, Istanbul and yes, even Milan. Not overly original (or hugely compelling) but whatever.

For the next 10 days or so, there’s a chance one might see Watts or Owen by hanging out near the train station. The crew will be shooting there as well as at the Victorian Hotel Gallia across from the station or the one real skyscraper — the Pirelli Tower — at the other end of the square. Prepare to gawk.

Italians Try on T-Shirt Resume

T-shirt resumeItalians are often thought to wear their hearts on their sleeves, now an enterprising headhunter wants them to wear resumes emblazoned on their chests.

Massimo Rosa, who has two decades of experience in the hr biz, invented the “Curriculum T-shirt.” And patented the idea, he’s so sure of its marketability, said to already have fans outside Italy.

I’m not sure I buy it, partially because of the Borat-worthy claim on the English homepage ( “The only T-shirt to the world that it makes to find job you!”), where two vaguely Germanic models wear shirts with job titles on them. Cost ranges from €30-40 euro ($42-$57) via the online shop.

One of the great things about Italians is that if they’re not broadcasting an affinity for Roberto Cavalli or Guru, their clothes are textless triumphs. The subliminal message is: “Look at me!” “Admire me!”

They are not an invitation to read, and never to chuckle, “I’m with stupid” or “If you’re rich, I’m single.” (Another reason to admire Italians: they don’t go in for bumper stickers.)

I’ve mentioned it before, it’s easy to think of Italy as a pleasure country, but if you go by the constitution it is “founded on work,” and labor problems are almost always front and center here.

A few recent examples: at the end of the newscast on the radio every day the announcer reminds me that journalists have not managed to renew the national contract for almost two years, the finance minister railed against “big baby” bonus to get 30-somethings out of the nest and work-related deaths continue to loom large.

I have a hard time, though, imagining where the unemployed Italian might sport the T-shirt: the Sunday passeggiata, stroll through town? Nah. That means broadcasting to absolutely everyone that your family has at least one desperate element.

Having an aperitif with friends? Even an Italian would have a hard time flirting in an iron-on tee that says you need a job.

At the park? Clearly you’re a loafer and not much of a job hunter. A conference? Too casual. (I can, however, imagine buying armfuls for American friends: the mish-mash of Italian and English — “area manager mercati asiatici” — has a certain playful appeal. )

So, wear a T-shirt, get a job? If the devil wears Prada, only a poor slob would wear his CV.

Mafia ‘Ten Commandments’ Found

When police broke into an ordinary-looking villa near Palermo to capture mob boss Salvatore Lo Piccolo on Nov. 6, the Cosa Nostra bigwig was trying to flush orders to henchmen, called pizzini, down the toilet.

What police found among his papers, strewn along with bags of dried pasta, was better than that: a modern-day etiquette guide for men of honor.

More than one Italian TV news report made fun of it, interspersing the rules with scenes of Marlon Brando in “The Godfather” and comic Roberto Benigni in his send-up of the Mafia “Johnny Stecchino.” It does seem almost too stereotyped to be true.

Here’s part of what the typewritten, four-page photocopied guidebook said, in somewhat rickety Italian (translation mine):

1. No one can introduce himself directly to another one of our friends, an intermediary must do it.

2. Never look at the wives of our friends.

3. Never be seen with police.

4. Don’t frequent pubs and clubs.

5. It is your duty to always be available for Cosa Nostra – even if your wife is about to give birth.

6. Appointments must absolutely be kept.

7. Wives must be treated with respect.

8. When asked for information, the truth must be told.

9. Do not take money from other people or other families.

10. People who can’t be part of Cosa Nostra: anyone with a close relative in the police force, anyone with a traitor in the family, anyone with bad behavior who doesn’t adhere to moral values.

Smarty Plants: Inside Italy’s Plant Intelligence Lab

Plant Robot -Linv LabSESTO FIORENTINO, Italy — Professor Stefano Mancuso knows it isn’t easy being green: He runs the world’s only laboratory dedicated to plant intelligence.

At the International Laboratory of Plant Neurobiology (LINV), about seven miles outside Florence, Italy, Mancuso and his team of nine work to debunk the myth that plants are low-life. Research at the modern building combines physiology, ecology and molecular biology.

“If you define intelligence as the capacity to solve problems, plants have a lot to teach us,” says Mancuso, dressed in harmonizing shades of his favorite color: green. “Not only are they ‘smart’ in how they grow, adapt and thrive, they do it without neuroses. Intelligence isn’t only about having a brain.”

Plants have never been given their due in the order of things; they’ve usually been dismissed as mere vegetables. But there’s a growing body of research showing that plants have a lot to contribute in fields as disparate as robotics and telecommunications. For instance, current projects at the LINV include a plant-inspired robot in development for the European Space Agency. The “plantoid” might be used to explore the Martian soil by dropping mechanical “pods” capable of communicating with a central “stem,” which would send data back to Earth.

In addition to studies on the effects of music on vineyards, the center’s researchers have also published papers on gravity sensing, plant synapses and long-distance signal transmission in trees. One important offshoot of the research activity is an international symposium on plant neurobiology. Next year’s meeting will be held in Japan.

More from zoomata’s Nicole Martinelli at Wired.

High-Res Last Supper Reveals Leonardo’s Secrets

Last Supper in Hi-ResA 16-billion-pixel image of Leonardo da Vinci’s The Last Supper — said to be the world’s highest-resolution photo — went online Saturday, making the masterpiece available for scrutiny by art lovers everywhere.

White-robed Dominican monks opened the doors of their sacristy to unveil the high-res image of the painting on a giant screen just steps away from the real thing at the church of Santa Maria delle Grazie.

The digitized version, produced using special techniques designed to protect the fragile painting from damaging light exposure, gives anyone with an internet connection a chance to dig deeper into Leonardo’s techniques than ever before.

With the air of chiding an old friend, Leonardo expert Pietro Marani zoomed in on the cuff of traitor Judas to show the gold flake Leonardo applied.

“He went against his own better judgment here,” Marani said. “We know he considered using real gold a cop-out, that he thought true artists should be able to make paint glitter like gold, but there it is.”

For a close-up on the workings of a genius, Marani recommended viewers search the Last Supper for the church bell tower and shrubs outside the windows, the patterns and wrinkles in the tablecloth, the reflection of an orange wedge in a pewter plate in front of Matthew and the perspective lines in the upper left-hand corner that lead (imperfectly) to Jesus’ eye.

Leonardo used oil and tempera paints on dry plaster, an experimental technique, and as a result, the Last Supper is now so faded and cracked it can’t withstand exposure to bright light. To protect the painting, HAL9000 worked with restoration specialists at Rome’s Istituto Centrale per il Restauro to develop a lighting system without the ultraviolet emissions and high thermal impact so hazardous to works of art. Shot with a Nikon D2X digital SLR in just nine hours, the total impact of the digitization process was equal to just a few minutes of the soft lighting that normally illuminates the painting.

More from zoomata’s Nicole Martinelli at Wired.

Neutron Beams Search for Da Vinci’s Lost Masterpiece

palazzo vecchio florenceFLORENCE, Italy — Art diagnostician Maurizio Seracini has waited 30 years to get to the bottom of his biggest mystery yet: whether Leonardo da Vinci’s greatest lost fresco lies behind a wall in the Palazzo Vecchio here.

Seracini’s team of 30 will scan the palazzo’s 177-foot-long wall in mid-November, looking for the Battle of Anghiari, a work so magnificent it has been called the “school of the world.” The $1.5 million search expedition will jump-start a multidisciplinary conservation program at the University of California at San Diego’s Center of Interdisciplinary Science for Art, Architecture and Archaeology.

Since founding the art- and architectural-diagnostic center Editech in 1977, Seracini — a fourth-generation Florentine — has synced studies in engineering, art history and medicine to examine more than 2,000 buildings and artworks. He augments standard archival work with the use of ultrasound, X-rays, infrared, thermography and ultraviolet devices.

Editech’s notable discoveries include the original positions of the Three Graces in Botticelli’s Allegory of Spring and the hasty cover-up by a lesser hand of Leonardo’s Adoration of the Magi, which earned Seracini a mention as the only real-life character in Dan Brown’s The Da Vinci Code. Full story at Wired.