An Italian Pleasure Palace Rises Again

Venaria Reale About 300 years ago, the Venaria Reale was a vast pleasure estate, a jewel in the crown of opulent Savoy residences surrounding Turin.

The Baroque palace, stables, gardens and hunting reserve (235 acres), built by Duke Carlo Emanuele II of Savoy, were so magnificent that a local proverb claimed that leaving Turin without visiting Venaria was like “seeing the mother but not the daughter.”

For the last two centuries, though, the town of Venaria, seven and a half miles north of Turin, had witnessed the steady deterioration of the estate, which was erected in part as a demonstration of the power of the House of Savoy.

By the time the region of Piedmont embarked on an eight-year, $300 million restoration in 1999, the estate had been collecting dust for so long that even some Italians mispronounced the name (it’s ven-ah-REE-uh). Full story by zoomata’s Nicole Martinelli in The New York Times.

Italy Transport Strike: Where’s the Pasta?

supermarket strike 2Truck drivers demanding government subsidies to meet rising fuel costs mean closed gas stations and empty shelves in pharmacies and grocery stores across Italy.

Strikers are vowing not to hit the roads again until December 14, but three days into the protest, my local supermarket in Milan already looks like the scene of wartime famine: there was no fresh fruit or vegetables and only a few half pints of milk left.

Strikes in Italy are a frequent nuisance but generally polite — sure, you may have to re-arrange a few appointments or leave work early but you’re still going to be able to get on with it.

supermarket strike

But as Bloomberg reports, things are different this time around:
The strike will cost food producers 200 million euros ($294 million) a day because of delays in the delivery of milk, fruit, vegetables and meat, according to the Italian agricultural association. Pharmacists warned yesterday that they may run out of medicine.

Touch Italians and food, though, and things suddenly become serious.

New Year’s Eve In Venice: One Big Kiss

VeniceThe canals and narrow streets of Venice have long been known to breed romance, but for the first time 60,000 people will seal the reputation of Italy’s most romantic city by kissing on New Year’s eve.

Called LoVe 2008 (the VE = stands for Venice), it’s the brainchild of Marco Balich, a Venetian known for a deft hand at video clips and as the executive producer for the 2006 Turin Olympics.

Casanova, La Serenissima’s poster child for the more debauched side of love, would probably sneer at the event. Organizers are casting for 100 camera-ready couples (a multi-ethnic assortment of the young, attractive and straight?) to be immortalized as they kiss at midnight.

Still, it does give people milling around in St. Mark’s square other to do than ogle each other and set off fireworks.

According to news reports, it’ll work like this: at 10:45 p.m. on December 31, 200 kissing couples will kick off the lip action. At 11 p.m., everyone does a practice lip-smack. At 11:45, another trial kiss (who said Italians don’t take romance seriously?) followed by a countdown accompanied by a “medley of love songs.” Twenty seconds into 2008, the collective kiss.

Just remember the Chapstick.

Italy Opens First Design Museum

Triennale Design Museum

A quick look at Milan’s new museum of design at the Triennale, which opened today.

First impression: it’s a little dark (maybe just opening night glam?) and an little sparse.
There are 400 objects, from Vespas and Moka coffee makers to Kartell plastic chairs and the Olivetti “Valentina” typewriter, that I remember seeing in just one room on a rotating basis before the new space. It’s been hailed as Italy’s first dedicated design museum, but takes up only one refurbed part (2,000 square meters, about 21, 500 square feet) of the cavernous Fascist-style building in Sempione Park.

Triennale moka

Architect Andrea Branzi, with enough rings around his trunk to have worked with many top-tier names in Italian design, curated the collection which includes pieces from Alessi, Achille Castiglioni, Ettore Sottsass and Zanuso. Instead of printed paper signs, little computer screens provide background info and dates on the works — for the moment only in Italian.

Triennale Design Museum Kartell room

The main room, which contributes much to the murky underwater feel of the place, is a multimedia “overture” by movie director Peter Greenaway, lots of naked bodies shot on transparent screens called “the body is design” (“il corpo è il design.”) Mah. Themes and exhibits will change every year during design week.

Michele De Lucchi created the most interesting part: a transparent walkway perfect for people watching.

Tickets are 11 euros, price includes a catalog.
Triennale Design Museum

Questionable Holiday Greetings from Oliviero Toscani

Oliviero Toscani tshirt Shock fotog Oliviero Toscani’s latest exploit is a limited edition T-shirt for the holidays that says “It’s Christmas? Shall we F***?” in Italian (E’ Natale? Scopiamo?) with his name under it.

It’ll be sure to liven up the otherwise soporific unveiling of Christmas lights in Milan shopping mecca Via della Spiga, where the tees with celebrity slogans go on sale for charity (€60, circa $90) Thursday.

While some of his recent projects (the spiffy privy, the naked anorexic clothing campaign) make me long for his Benetton ads, Toscani gets some credit for shaking things up.

His message, which reportedly made Milan mayor Letizia Moratti blush, certainly tops the other ones: you couldn’t pay me to wear designer Roberto Cavalli’s which says “Santa Claus exists…”